Savennières appellation in the Loire Valley produces exceptional Chenin Blancs. Domaine du Closel’s Evelyne de Pontbriand thinks they rival the best in the world and compares them to Viognier from Condrieu in the Northern Rhône Valley.
Both create pure and distinct terroir expressions that elevate their respective still white varietals into the luxury space.
They are arguably the premier terroirs for their varietal. Condrieu was classified as an AOC in the 1940s, Savennières in 1952. Condrieu has had more time to earn itself a reputation as the global touchstone for Viognier, delivering bold and aromatic wines that demand hefty prices. Finding an example of Condrieu for under $60 isn’t easy. Both cover relatively small areas of roughly 300 hectares.
Savennières AOC includes only three communes south of Angers on the right bank of the Loire – Savennières, Bouchemaine and La Possonnière. Of these, 146 hectares are planted with vineyards, Savennières-Roche-aux-Moines covers 33 hectares, and Savennières-Coulée-de-Serrant covers seven hectares.
Former teacher, President of the Savennières appellation and advocate for Savennières, Evelyne de Pontbriand is the matriarch and winemaker of Domaine du Closel and a bit of a star in this part of the Loire Valley. She took over her family domain in Savennières after her mother’s retirement in the early 2000s. She also took on her mother’s role as president of the appellation.
She is a fierce believer in Savennières being recognised as the best Chenin Blanc expression as Condrieu is for Viognier.
Her estate produces wine using biodynamic practices, and her wines have garnered a cult following as exceptional examples of what Savennières is capable of. Evelyne is also a bit of a soil fanatic, and her specific geological knowledge of her small block of Chenin Blanc vines means her Chenin Blancs wines are unique terroir expressions with depth and minerality.
“Savennières is the top terroir for Chenin Blanc, thanks to the exposure – facing south/southwest and directly near the Loire River. The climate is semi-oceanic and mild. It only rains 400mm each year. The schist and quartz soils also offer perfect conditions for long-lasting, complex, mineral white wines. There are a lot of similarities between both AOCs,” says Evelyne.
This is an excerpt from the Winter Edition of Drinks Trade Magazine. Read the full story here.
