Rosé: the 2020 vintage

August 17, 2021
By Ioni Doherty

Provence is France’s oldest wine region and stretches from the Mediterranean to the Alps, spanning nearly 200 kilometres in length, through the departments of Bouches-du-Rhône, Var and Alpes-Maritimes. Home to three appellations – AOC Côtes de Provence, AOC Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence and AOC Coteaux Varois en Provence – the region’s long-standing speciality is Rosé, which accounts for 91 per cent of production totalling 166 million bottles in 2020.

Rosé is closely linked to the identity of Provence, sharing the same values of authenticity, sensory appeal and enterprise. 38 per cent of French appellation Rosés and 4.3 per cent of the world’s Rosés are produced in Provence and their signature style – their pale pink hue, dry and very aromatic palate – has become the category benchmark.

Provence Rosés continued to grow in export markets in 2020

Despite the ongoing pandemic and geopolitical tensions, Provence rosé wines successfully overcame the headwinds in overseas markets in 2020, rising by 6 per cent in volume and 1 per cent in value. Increased winery sales over the summer and towards the end of the year offset the delays caused by the spring restrictions.

In terms of market distribution, growth in the major European markets – primarily the United Kingdom, the Netherlands, Germany and Belgium – more than compensated for the downturn in the American market, which still ranks first as the leading export destination.

Provence posts highest French growth abroad

With exports increasing by nearly 6 per cent in volume in 2020, Provence bucked the general trend in the French wine industry, which experienced an overall downturn of 5 pre cent.

Provence ranked first among wine regions posting growth, ahead of Burgundy (+ 1.4 per cent) and the Loire Valley  (+ 1 per cent). In value terms, Provence is the only wine region to experience growth this past year.

Recovery over the entire second half of the year

After several months in decline between February and May due to the first lockdown, exports of Provence Rosé wines returned to growth in June, with winery sales rising by 46 per cent compared with June 2019.

Exports to Australia continue to grow

Exports to Australia have shown a strong and continuous growth over the years. Although exports to Australia saw a decline in the calendar year of 2020 by 8 per cent in volume and 5 per cent in value due to Covid, they have bounced back and are up by 75 per cent in volume for the period of January to May when compared with 2020.

Every month thereafter showed increases, with December posting a  record 75 per cent surge on December 2019. Vins de Provence say that this year’s start is encouraging with a 17 per cent volume increase between January and May when compared to the same period in 2020.

The 2019 season – an early start

After a wet 2019 autumn, winter was very dry and one of the mildest on record, so much so that the growing season got off to an early start. In March, plummeting temperatures slowed development, although the vine cycle continued to stay ahead of usual growth milestones, flowering ten to fifteen days earlier than normal.

Good conditions for harvesting

In July, the hot, dry weather caused some nascent water stress in some areas and reduced progress in growth at the veraison stage. Harvesting began in mid-August in the earliest-ripening areas and extended over a longer period than usual, with the last grapes picked in the latest-ripening areas picked in mid-October. In terms of ripeness, the hot, dry summer promoted good development of the fruit while cooler temperatures, combined with a few days of rain that occurred in September and the return of the Mistral wind, proved beneficial for the vineyards being harvested towards the end of the season. Across the region, the grapes showed lovely sugar-acid balance and concentration.

Inconsistent volumes

Rainfall in the spring led to downy mildew. This was controlled but the frost that affected the Var in March, when temperatures fell to -7°C inland during the early stages of the growing season, reduced production volumes, particularly for Grenache.

Unaffected areas, on the other hand, harvested a bountiful crop with fairly large, juicy berries.

The wines of the 2020 vintage

AOC CÔTES DE PROVENCE

Light to very light, brilliant, clear hues.Fresh flowers (rose), yellow fruits (melon, peach) and red fruits (strawberry, raspberry, cherry), with touches of citrus zest, tropical fruits and marshmallow.

Balanced generosity and light tangy freshness lifting a persistent finish often suffused with abundant fruitiness.

AOC COTEAUX D’AIX-EN-PROVENCE

Shimmering, vibrant, light colours of salmon-pink, peach and lychee with clean pink reflections.

Floral and tangy red berry fruit notes, intense aromas of citrus and yellow or white-fleshed fruits, occasionally lifted by some sweet spice accents.

Ample with a great acid backbone.

AOC COTEAUX VAROIS EN PROVENCE

Beautiful pale pink colour ranging from salmon to very light pink. Complex and expressive. Floral notes and broad array of fruit aromatics – citrus, tropical fruits, sun-ripened fruits and fresh red fruits.

Elegant and ample yet also aromatic and persistent. Consistently shows great balance between roundness and freshness.

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